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When compiling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might expect familiar award-winning names. But, nestled prominently among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant corner of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. This honour has made the owners utterly shocked.

“I’m utterly astonished,” says a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s hard graft that led to their humble shop achieving such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its former charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the food, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning outside its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.